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Jean De Belley's Restaurant Review and Gourmet Guide
By Wade Holland
The Mandarin - Beverly Hills, CA
Blue Moon Saloon - Redondo Beach, CA
Mon Grenier - Encino, CA
From the Los Angeles Times (Dec. 6, 1974)...
"And now, for the last six months, I've been enjoying the sweet and sour style of Jean de Belley's Restaurant Review and Gourmet Guide. The name alone is a mouthful. But Wade Holland, who is publisher and writer for De Belley, has style stuffed with the ripest nouns and adjectives. For July, Holland described an expensive night in Newport Beach: "My stomach began to churn when I discovered the tough; chewy shrimp and floury sauce sitting before me as Scampi Glaces Comtesee." For a summer issue on Santa Barbara, he found, a famous place serving prawns that "had no redemption" and a Mexican spot where garbanzo beans "had been dyed vermillion red and served mainly to make the iceberg lettuce look as if it had chicken pox." For October, Holland's courses included kind words for a West-wood Greek restaurant: "The succulent chunks of meat were fork tender, absolutely devoid of stringy membranes, and treated to a marvelously flavored marinade. "He also sympathized, with owners whose menu printings can't keep up with prices. By November, he was back in fierce form, having been to Brentwood's most expensive dining room: "In due course the entrees arrived, led off by my Sauteed Sea Bass Choron ($9.75) and the ' captain's twice-repeated assurance, 'You're going to love this.' I didn't love it. In fact. I didn't even eat it. The bearnaise was about the consistency of half-and-half, distressingly sour, and splashed over fishy-flavored bass. A few spoonfulls of dried out rice were as appetizing as 'kitty litter." I recommend De Belley's review to people who venture out with strong stomachs. And I recommend it to stay-at-homes who savor language with all its fancy garnishes. Holland offers opinions on short-order places, tall-order places, and which wines are well-pressed; he offers everything in simmering prose seasoned with fresh hyperbole..."
Condition - Used. Two crease marks from originally being mailed in an envelope. Edge wear & tear, crinkles, bumps.
Size - 8.5 x 11 inches. 8 pages.